Tea tree oil is a tried-and-true favorite among skin care pros and beauty buffs alike, boasting anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties that’ll ferociously fight against even the most stubborn breakout. Below, find everything you need to know about this magical ingredient, including its benefits as well as how to properly use it (because yes, there is a wrong way). We know what you’re thinking—this sounds strangely familiar to benzoyl peroxide. The difference? Tea tree oil is also anti-inflammatory, which means it has the ability to “soothe and relieve irritated, itchy, red, swollen skin,” notes Marina Peredo, M.D., aboard-certified dermatologist in New York. This mitigates the risk of developing skin sensitivities—as is often the case with traditional acne-clearing ingredients like our little friend benzoyl peroxide—and is a much gentler, non-irritating alternative to combating acne that can also reduce the risk of scarring. True, tea tree oil is slower at warding off acne than benzoyl peroxide, but for those with easily irritated skin, the gentler approach may be worth the wait. TL;DR: Tea tree oil possesses qualities that make it an effective fighter against acne, inflammation, and bacteria that leads to breakouts. It’s always recommended to dilute tea tree oil (FYI: This is the case for all essential oils)—either by mixing one to two drops in with your moisturizer or by combining it with a carrier oil like safflower oil (which pairs beautifully with tea tree thanks to its noncomedogenic, anti-inflammatory qualities). If using straight-up, chemist and esthetician Marie-Veronique Nadeau says to be vigilant with your application at the onset of a breakout—this means applying the diluted oil two to three times a day after cleansing. When you see the breakout begin to clear up (likely after a few weeks), you can tone it down to one to two times daily. Of course, because of tea tree oil’s potency, it’s always best to conduct a 24-hour patch test on your inner forearm to rule out any allergic reactions, which would pop up as redness, breakouts, or itchiness, says Nadeau. Also, Green notes that as with most essential oils, tea tree oil “contains chemicals that can increase skin photosensitivity, which makes it more susceptible to damage caused by the sun’s UV rays.” Bottom line: Avoid exposing your skin to the sun when pure tea tree oil is on the skin care menu, or just use it as part of your p.m. skin care routine to avoid the risk altogether. You should also be mindful of using tea tree oil in conjunction with other potent active ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, and retinol, warns Peredo, as the combination can be extremely drying and irritating, especially for sensitive skin types. Using products that are pre-formulated with tea tree oil is your best bet if you’re concerned with exacerbating your acne flare-ups. This decreases your risk of a dermal disaster, and your skin will benefit from the other complementary ingredients in the product’s formulation.
